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A few hints and tips!

First of all thanks for buying my interpretation of the Predator Gunship, I hope it brings you many victories on the battlefield!!!

Assembling is very simple and you will require very little in way of tools

A craftknife, couple of sanding blocks, model filler and superglue

I would also recommend pinning various sections for both strength and to be able to break the ship down for storage and transport

My pinning material of choice is 3mm carbon rod, my model filler of choice is 'white putty'

Oh and let's not forget the perfect tool for most situations, several different sized fingers!

click on the pictures to make them magically grow

Don't forget to wash all the resin parts in soapy water, rinse then allow to dry. this will remove any residue of release agent that might interfere with paint adhesion when painting ;)

ps. fixed the broken picture links ;)

 

 

This kit is what is termed as a garage kit, so please bear in mind the masters were all hand sculpted and casting without vacuum equipment as such there will be small imperfections and such but frankly this is very unlikely to take away the awsomeness of the model once it is painted and laying waste to your oponents forces!

First thing to tackle are small surface air bubbles, this is super simple...

Best tool for this job is one of those handy fingers I mentioned earlier, simply take a small blob on the end of your finger and rub in circular motions on the surface of the model over the air bubbles, that's it! Once dry give a little rub over with somefine wet and dry paper

 

There are two connecting pieces labeled left and right, the best way to line these for pinning is to hold them onto the engine pod (they will sit nicely in position once butted up to the front raised section) while holding this part in place simply drill a couple of holes through and into the engine pod. Once done line the same connecting piece up on the flat plate of the fuselage and drill through (or mark witha pencil) this should mean your holes are perfectly aligned. simply cut a couple of rods to a suitable length and glue into the engine pods. Using this method the engine pods can be removed easily for transport, storage or for use with something else I have planned...watch this space ;)

Btw, the quickest way of cutting carbon rod of around 3mm or less is to simply roll it with a craft knife blade then snap it at the join

You may need to hold the connecting plates while the glue is drying with a ratchet clamp..or you can warm them in hot water, hold them in shape and run cold water over them

I would recommend attatching the missile pods at this point, it will give you a little more point of reference when lining up the front section, a couple of pins here wouldnt go amiss but if you can support it while drying just glue is perfectly OK, squirt some down into the joins and let capillary action take it where it's needed

 

Trim the pod vanes so they sit relatively flush onto the pod. be careful when trimming the large ones towards the tail end, it can be very easy to snap the end off if youa re not careful (done this many times on resin kits)!!

Attatch the intake cowel, try and get the best fit towards the top of the pod, you can make things good around the bottom half with clever use of filler and most of the udnerside is hidden from view when on display

After these are fitted and dry grab one of those smaller fingers and apply filler around the joins of the vanes and intake. Once dry give it a good sand, those flexible sanding blocks are brilliant for this as they can be pushed into awkard areas and help to shape the contours from the pod down onto the intake.

 

That was easy so far wasnt it? It's starting to look like a gunship now! Bob those little green sensors in the spots shown

Lets get that landing gear sorted! While my heavier prototype has been sitting on unmodifed legs for several weeks now I would recommend running a rod through them, especially for warmer climbs where resin is notorious for going a bit wobbly ;)

Simply hold the leg in place and drill a hole right through into the fuselage, cut a length of rod and glue into the leg. using this method the landing gear can be removed and attached when required, it's handy to fit a magnet or two at this point so they lock into place, it's not required but i like that satisfying 'click' sound :)

Glue the feet in place

I would reco a camera stand for these large models, they hold the weight and are fantastic on the tabletop as instead of a big solid base they will sit between figures and terrain and can also be adjusted to allow the ships to fly over uneven ground. quick tip, depending on the make and model you may need to glue a small section of plactic at the spot shown, this will stop the legs going beyond the point of no return, I usually glue the leg joints where they fold too just to make them a little more solid

Standard hole size for the stands seems to be 5mm, use the camera attachment to tap the thread into the hole, it a quick matter of uncrewing/screwing the stand into place when needed

Oh and one last tip on camera stands, go for the all metal variety and dont go thinking you are bagging a bargain by buying a bunch for pennies from China...apparantly China's idea of 'metal' is chrome plated plastic...bah!

 

Onto the BFG!

glue the disk as shown, join the two halfs of the power cell then glue ionto the back of the main gun section. Glue the two arms in place (in my head these swing the power cell down for quick replacement, my brain works in funny ways) Attach the business end to the gun and you done! You once again can either glue this in place or use magnets (recommended)

Best way to attach the ramp is to drill and attach the magnets in the shown places, easy removal and attachment :)

I recommend attaching the 3 strafing lasers last after everything is painted. I glued mine on first and I was tip toeing around them through the whole process of painting..I am still amazed I didnt break them off while working on the ship..fluke me thinks!

have fun painting, I look forward to seeing what you can do with her!

Btw, I had difficulty tracking down an actual pred text so if you are wondering the font I used was actually from Skyrim! it looks the part I feel. see if you can work out what the clan this ship belongs to is called, it's written along the banner on the front of the ship ;)

It's a good idea to use magnets to the strafing lasers rather than fixing them on a permenant basis as they can easily brak off and it will be handy to remove them to allow the ship to sit on the crashed spacecraft base...watch this space!

3mm diameter magnets are perfect for the lasers, notice the angle the middle laser has been cut so it sits at the right angle

 

Created a base for the gunship to sit on and become a crashed objective for the table! Simply pop off an engine pod and sit it in the base, instance objective for marines to capture, Predators to destroy or Xenos to spawn from!

Give me a shout if you interested in the base, it also comes with the damage patches that you can simply tack onto the ship with bluetak ;)

 

 

BULLDOG Mk1 APC

As with all resin kits be sure to wash all parts in soapy water to get rid of release agents, this will create a good base for painting!

Generally speaking anything smaller than a titan and I usually glue the whole kit together and then wash it down, I find this a much easier and less fiddly method than washing all individual parts before assembly and plug holes can be very unforgiving to small parts!

 

Start by gluing the suspension/rear light section onto the little lip on the main body of the APC then attatch the rear block and door. You can either glue the door in position or carefully drill out the outer hinges and using 1mm or thinner wire pin the hinges and allow the door to open and close. you may have to very careflly trim the hinges down a little if you want to do it this way!

Next judge the centreline of the rear wheels (these are the ones without the slots running around the out edge) and glue the wheel suspension supports in place, they are marked up 'L' and 'R'

I have found the best way to attatch the suspension arms to the wheels is to glue the forward arms at a right angles onto the central section, once these are dry glue the small circular disks as shown, these give something for the rear wheels to butt up to a glue to instead of just free hanging from the suspension arms adding a little strength to the whole rear assembly

glue the wheel assembly to the front arms then attach the rear arms and jobs a good un!

next simply glue the front wheels so they are spaced evenly in the arches. I recommend using a contact adhesive or something with a little 'wiggle time' (or be vigilante) so you can balance these out. First APC I built I wasnt taking notice and glued the wheels on uneven and the whole APC had a wobble on....very annoying and prizing the bloody wheel off was a nightmare once set, you have been warned!!!

You may find a few pin holes and dinks in the APC, I tend to leave a lot of this 'damage' as once painted it gives the model some character as battle damage and stuff and takes up washes and weathering techniques very nicely but a simple way to get rid of this sort of surface stippling is to simply rub a model filler in circular motions over the offending area to fill the blemishes. I actually use water based casting plaster (wet my finger then dunk like a sherbet) which does a grand job of this but I do have buckets of the stuff laying around so model filler is probably your better option :)

All that's left now is the really fun bit, get out the paints and get some colour on this beast, be sure to post pics of your finished models, love to see what people have done :)

The turrets are pretty straight forward, just glue the barrels to the turrets with the dangerous end pointing outwards!

The cradle is assembled and simply sits on top of the APC, it is designed to be removed and you can simply swap out the turret of your choice as your game desires :)

 

 

Predator Bike

Like the gunship and APC, start by washing the parts with a little soapy water. tbh I find assembling then washing the whole model before painting a lot easier!

Glue the bottom section with the peg hole so that it lines up with the cowel as shown in the first picture

Glue the rear passenger platform then fix the two small intakes to it at an angle as shown

next glue the wings into the recesses on the body, angle them roughly as shown, it doesnt have to be exact tbh, just fit them at an angle that you are happy with

Again the same applies to the engine pods, I like them vertical when attached to the wings but try them angled..they may look better!

Glue the aerial base as shown

Next glue the blades in the small recesses on the front, make sure they are level and roughly even!

The legs are glued to the torso and the body section should just clip in place, I just attach the top cowel with a little bluetak, this allows it to be removed and the rider can 'disembark'

if you are a clumsy butter fingers like my self I recently discovered a good tip after dropping this very bike during assembly!The front blades can be subseptable to breaking when hitting the floor at above reccomended velocity! glue some wire along the length a shown and it gives them a little more rigidity!!!

When I get time I am planning on creating an alternative pred rider in the easy rider style position...just need the time!

 

Have fun!

 

 

 

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